Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Design-It-Yourself Clothes - A line skirt (part 1)

I am very interested in making my own patterns and have a number of books on the subject. I thought I would start with Design-It-Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch. The designs in this book are very simple, without much fitting. While not necessarily my style, I thought it would be easiest to start with the book that looked friendliest to beginners.



The first item in the book is an A-Line skirt. The measurements needed are:

Length of skirt
Waist
Hip
Low hip down from waist
Sweep

(I'm not going to give elaborate instructions for this; for that you should get the book. I'm just going to give a general overview.) The first thing you do is plot all the coordinates on your map. (I mean pattern piece.) (Click on any picture to make it bigger.)


The instructions tell you how to add darts, square corners, and smooth the points. (Below is the front pattern.)


Then you add seam allowances. I use this clover brand tool that I can't remember the name of. It's cool because you can pull the little wheels out and adjust the width. If I pad it with extra paper, I can create an obvious line on the paper and then cut.


Then you create a back piece, with longer darts.


If you look closely, you can see some obvious problems. As in no hip shaping: there is a straight line from my hips to may waist. I am pretty sure this is a measurement problem and not a book problem. I made a muslin (which I am not going to bother to show) and it is a couple inches wide in the waist and at least an inch short in the hips. I'm going to make another pattern based on some revised measurements and hope for the best. Wish me luck!

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey Heidi,

A trick they use in the costume shop is to buy sound board (I think that's what it's called) from Lowes or wherever to put on top of their tables. You cut it to size and cover it with craft paper and tape all around - that way you can pin into it - etc without hurting your table top. Then you can just lift it off when you want your table back!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Fun! I just do not have the motivation to try drafting my own patterns but I am fascinated by how it's done.

Faye Lewis said...

I flipped through that book on my last bookstore visit. Might have to go back and pick it up.

Andrea said...

I purchased this book also and have started to read it. I haven't drafted anything yet though. I think I need to get busy.