Thursday, December 15, 2011

Colette Patterns: Violet

I made something!!!!! Wooo hoo!  Ok.  I've calmed down.  I desperately need blouses that go with jeans AND skirts.  I've been flirting with getting the Colette Patterns Violet top for awhile, but resisted because I though I could draft something similar.   Turns out I can.  Also turns out I don't have much motivation to do so, so I caved and bought the thing.  (There was no sun today, so crappy flash picture will have to suffice.)

I made several fitting changes and one big style change.  ( I like Colette Patterns a lot, but I always make a muslin because I have to make so many fitting changes.)

  • I added 5/8 inch to the seam allowance because I liked the length of my muslin without hemming.
  • The bust darts ended somewhere slightly above my waist, so I raised them.  I can see from this photo that I raised them too high, so I will move them down just a smidge.
  • There was a lot of gaping at the neckline (and too much fabric at the upper chest) so I took all of that out by making a neckline dart and then moving it into the bust dart.  (I did not muslin this change and may be what raised the bust dart point a little higher than I thought it was.)
  • I took about 1 inch out of the length of the back yoke piece.  (Above the armpit.)  I often end up with a bunch of fabric pooling in the middle of my back and  I don't have a swayback.  What I have discovered is that the pattern length from my neck to my armpit is often too long for me and causes the back of my shirts to be longer than the front.  Hence the pooling.
  • I made an under collar piece slightly smaller than the upper collar, so it would look nicer.
  • I did not care for either of the sleeve options, to I took the short sleeve piece and turned into more of a cap sleeve shape.  Much more flattering and comfortable on me.

This fabric is kind of an odd color (super saturated in real life) so I thought it would be great for my first prototype.  (It was one of the $2 per yard cotton poplins I got from Fabric Mart.)  Aside from the darts being a little too high and having some trouble getting the rounded parts of the collar just right, I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.  It is exactly my kind of shirt, and I will probably make several of them now that I have the fit right.  (I tend to procrastinate on making things with buttons, which is stupid because the machine I have now does great buttonholes.)  I also like the peter pan collar, but am going to play around with some different collar shapes because I can.  Colette patterns tend to skew young, and I might want to age this up a bit by adding a less youthful collar.  (Although I think it looks fine on me.)  All in all, I'd say I am pretty happy.


Sheila said...

Cute blouse. I avoided button up blouses for a while until I recently sew a tie bow blouse and realized doing buttonholes are not that bad after all.

Faye Lewis said...

Nice top and beautiful color.

StephC said...

Nice top. Sometimes it's REALLY nice to make something that someone else has already figured out how to put together...

So pretty. :)

Uta said...

Very cute, and I really like the color! I've been thinking about age-appropriateness lately, and about the fine line between vintage and old-fashioned. The funny thing is there are people at any age who can wear a trend/shape because it suits them. I would think Peter Pan collar suit you.

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the report. You're not alone in having to make extensive changes to a Colette Patterns pattern, including raising the darts. I tried to get the Sorbetto to fit, but gave up after a couple of sessions with a tutor. The tutor said that some of her colleagues reported the same issues.

I like some of the company's patterns, including the "Violet" blouse, but am going to use them as inspiration for now. After all, it's a pretty standard blouse with a Peter Pan collar.

I agree that you need to lower the darts, but it's still a cute blouse. Good work!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a sweet little blouse! Love that color.